www.RX7fb.com

Hi Chris, a little bit late but on the case now.

Looking at page 188, you're talking the drivers side, which is connector E3, back of the LH motor.
I would go straight for the red wire into or out of connector E3. That's the 'Up' feed to the motor. If that's a broken wire or a bad contact I think you'll get the symptoms you describe.

There is also a diode in the 'Up' line inside the motor and there's an 'Up' / 'Down' position switch again inside the motor.
But easiest first, that Red wire into E3.

Let's know how you get on.

Codge.

codge wrote:Hi Chris, a little bit late but on the case now.

Looking at page 188, you're talking the drivers side, which is connector E3, back of the LH motor.
I would go straight for the red wire into or out of connector E3. That's the 'Up' feed to the motor. If that's a broken wire or a bad contact I think you'll get the symptoms you describe.

There is also a diode in the 'Up' line inside the motor and there's an 'Up' / 'Down' position switch again inside the motor.
But easiest first, that Red wire into E3.

Let's know how you get on.

Codge.

It was a beautiful day in southern california today so I got the car out and checked the red wire connector at E3. I put a test light between the motor connector and the red wire and pushed the console switch - the test light turned on as the passenger light went up then went off when the light was up. So it seems like the motor is getting juice, but the diode/switch in the motor is stuck in the down position. What do you think?

chc wrote:Chris, if you are stuck and need replacement motor, I have a used pair for the Sa which I bought in error - yours at cost if interested ?

Still debugging ! Where do live and would you sell just the driver side motor? How much do these sell for?

Hi Chris.
It does seem likely that it's a motor fault. Maybe a good test before throwing it away would be to disconnect both red wires.....one at E3 connector (this headlight) and the other at E4 connector behind the other side headlight.
Then jumper a flying lead across the car from the red wire coming into E3 and the E4 terminal you've just left empty.
If the good headlight still lifts up I think we can safely say the suspect motor is done for.

Codge

codge wrote:Hi Chris.
It does seem likely that it's a motor fault. Maybe a good test before throwing it away would be to disconnect both red wires.....one at E3 connector (this headlight) and the other at E4 connector behind the other side headlight.
Then jumper a flying lead across the car from the red wire coming into E3 and the E4 terminal you've just left empty.
If the good headlight still lifts up I think we can safely say the suspect motor is done for.

Codge

I think that's a good idea. I will try it some time this week - I wonder if you can take these motors apart and replace internal parts.

Sorry for the delayed response, I was on an ocean cruise holiday last week. I appreciate your input!

Ocean Cruises - and you live in sunny CA......What?
Try a North-of-England winter; ain't seen the sun for 4 months and we're growing green skin. We need to be cruising, not you.
At least we aren't flooded out like South & South West.....

I've never had a headlight motor fail in 31 years with FB's. So I've never studied one in detail.
The subject doesn't really come up on here much either (good pun there).

Hope it proves the point.

Dave

I hooked up the power(red wire) from the driver headlight motor to the working one and it worked fine. I also hooked up the driver side headlight motor with the power from the good motor and it did not work. The problem seems to be motor.

I also cleaned up the window washer system and it worked great. Every thing on the car is now working except the one headlight motor. I changed the oil & filter, brake fluid and coolant; and still need to change trans gear oil and differential oil.

I think I'm going to wait on the headlight until I pass the smog test. If the thermal reactor is working I might have a chance.