www.RX7fb.com

After some testing in this extreme heat (30+ ambient here the last few days) I'm not happy my cooling solution is adequate, so a 16" SPAL fan arrived today

I used the SPAL data sheet to see if this should theoretically fit before ordering and I've now tested the fit by placing the fan in position and all seems OK. Once I've constructed some brackets, I should be able to enclose it inside the OEM shroud (see pic below), which will help appearance and airflow. The shroud and fan will produce some significant airflow through the oil cooler, which my current 12" does not, so I think this should be more than adequate to keep engine temps in check.



Also now "re-cored" one of my rear numberplate rusty lamp holders:

that's a nice fan, I might go for one of those when I do my TII conversion... I'm undecided whether or not to keep the MR2 fans on mine, they keep the temp rock solid but are quite heavy.... a single 16" might be a better option, which controller are you using?

I'm using the cheap and cheerful "bulb/expansion" type thermostat. Not so neat to see, but it works superbly.

Like this one Installed in KIMI 2:


Not as neat as the Davies-Craig thermistor types, but it does the job well enough

The refurbed oil cooler is now re-installed. I've applied POR15 treatment to the worst areas of chassis rail corrosion in the area around the front of the car (all surface rust - no holes ), to the undertray and to the bumper. Cleaned headlamp washer bottle and installed SPAL radiator fan. Just been out for a test drive and all seems well, no oil leaks and fan works really well

Nice work the washer bottle came up a treat, what did you clean it with?

Thanks Ian. Nothing special used to clean the washer bottle, just soapy solution and stiff brush. It did clean up better than I expected, and most of the grime was on the outside, so easily accessible.

Next challenge is the unreliable rear fog light switch. I have taken it apart and am trying to fix the internals, as I can see the issue (what a horrid design!). If the fix is successful, I'll post up what I did in another topic for easy reference. I would like to keep the OEM rocker, rather than replace with a generic switch from eBay, if at all possible.

I've got a box full of 1st gen switches including fog light switches Malcolm, let me know if you need one and I'll drop one in the post gratis

ian65 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 14, 2018 6:31 pm I've got a box full of 1st gen switches including fog light switches Malcolm, let me know if you need one and I'll drop one in the post gratis

I did manage to repair the fog light switch and it's working fine again now. It was a fiddly job and though, and not one I'd recommend doing!

It's good to know you've got some spares and many thanks for the offer Ian. On this occasion, hang on to them for those in more dire need (or until my repaired one packs up!)

I noticed a small pool of oil on the undertray below the oil cooler connectors a few days ago

It seems the top connector and the bypass bolt both had signs of leakage. No discernible drop on the dipstick though, so nothing massive.

I tried nipping up the connector adaptor and bolt into the oil cooler tank, but there were still signs of slight leaks after a run. So, up on jackstands, dropped the oil and the undertray for better access. I changed the ali crush washer on the upper connector and nipped up the bypass bolt. I refilled with fresh oil, ran the engine to get it warm and kept the oil pressure gauge as high as possible for a while to stress the joints. All seemed OK, so I put everything back together and went for a spirited 30 mile run. When I checked again I found the slighest of oil dampness on the top adaptor, but not even a drip had formed and no sign of any oil loss below the joint. I checked the tightness again, but was reluctant to nip the connector up any more as I didn't want to do any damage to the threads/boss. I'll keep an eye on it, but can probably live with it, if it gets no worse.

Thought maybe I should have tried some PTFE tape on the threads? Has anyone tried this, or any other method to get a better seal?

PTFE is always good, there is one for heating oil which I have used in the past, do not be tempted to use that "extra little nip" as we all know the feeling when it moves to far as the thread strips