www.RX7fb.com

installed carb, minus linkage....

its a 450cfm holley 4160 converted to 4150, metering blocks in pic were mock/ see if it fires
yes I'm happy to announce I started Cricket up twice today, for initial fire I wired
leading directand trailing on the MSD 6al white wire. Used the Accel superbike coil for leading side, pic shows temp hook up to see if it would even work

I will say from messing around today that IT IS POSSIBLE to have direct fire on a stock ignition system (83-85 dizzy) by switching oem leading coil with a Accel suoerbike coil, used both an inductive type on the oem system and a cd type on the 6al....

after multiple failed attempts to stop the secondary metering block from leaking I resorted back to the plate for temp fix , sorted throttle , and return spring

finished bumpers and sealed them

got cowl panel to my liking

and after all the leaks and fuel pressure set , float level, etc... i couldnt resist a start up...video
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10 ... =2&theater
also tore down front end, removed calipers, rotor, wheel bearings, outer tie rod ends, and ball joints...


Mike

That's a good milestone to reach Mike, getting it fired up again after all that wiring and ignition work...... something I'm curious about though, how are you going to draw in fresh air into the cabin now the vents are fibreglassed up?

ian65 wrote:That's a good milestone to reach Mike, getting it fired up again after all that wiring and ignition work...... something I'm curious about though, how are you going to draw in fresh air into the cabin now the vents are fibreglassed up?

Ian- even though I've filled in the cowl panel there is still the "drain" holes in eiter end of the inner cowl, so there will still be some air movement. At the point that rolling down the windows or turning on the a/c doesnt help, some strategic ducting in the wheel-well will have more than enough air. I didnt want to change the look of the vents, and if you look close their not level, I tried to use the body line of the hood, so each one sinks deeper closest to windshield like the hood line. plus if I don't like it, I'll paint the one from the parts car!

Also, while looking up the front end parts I need....the "competition" idler arm that every shop is selling for almost $100 USD.....It's nothing more than MOOG K9369 that rockauto has for $43 USD

Also x2, my leading coil so far is a well used accel superbike coil, its inductive, and yes I know the 6al can/will fry it....but thought I'd see if it's feasible to use if you don't want alot of hokey wiring trying to make Direct Fire Leading Ignition System.....once i'm convinced it will last for stock type ICM's I'll get the CD coil

been a couple weeks...so a little update is needed, since last post I've replaced both front ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, blocked the rear glass channel (that I had previously fiberglassed), and windshield area. Found a cpl spots and worked those...changed my mind about the color again....found out the tire and backspace I wanted to run wont fit without flares, removed the diff carrier for a r&p and torsen swap. Looking into adj length watts bars, bushings or spherical, and finally I'm looking at about 2-3 days worth of block sanding to get the slick-sand leveled to almost flawless smooth.....

Wheels, offsets, arches .... We need photos!

turntune wrote:
Also, while looking up the front end parts I need....the "competition" idler arm that every shop is selling for almost $100 USD.....It's nothing more than MOOG K9369 that rockauto has for $43 USD

l

We looked at USA Idler arms for our cars but after some research we were told they were for LHD chassis only, not reversible.

l[/quote]

We looked at USA Idler arms for our cars but after some research we were told they were for LHD chassis only, not reversible.[/quote]

I wish I had know that before I bought one.............

Anyone need a Moog Idler for a LHD car ?

We were told it by a US supplier John but it's not been verified.
Let us know whether it can be flipped or not.

after a few weeks worth of projects bleeding over into my 7 time, I'm back at it! Now time is being spent either block sanding till my arms fall of, or cruizing the you-pull-it yards looking for the axle I want (needle in a hay stack-94/95 4runner v6 auto SR5 locking 4.88) why the yota? exact length hub to hub, disc brakes, electric locker=peg leg for "economy" and almost spool at the flip of a switch,4.88? until you've driven a 7 with one dont knock it, plus the 4.88 is hard to find and will probably settle for the 4.56
few current pictures:
new location in shop, more room, closer to tools, easier on/off lift

and a few of how she sits after a day with the block



more to follow...
wheels....thinking shakotan's in a 16"/15" stagger, 16x8 +10 rear and 15x7 +20 front


and color is still on for the Highland Green Mica
here on a miata