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Taiga(Nisemono) wrote:

economiser wrote:I liked the idea of high-build filler primer, until it tripled the rate at which I went through sandpaper. So I switched to a sealer primer, much better all around. Nice results, less aggravation. Finished mine with 400-grit as my painter guy instructed.

I wet sand with 400 before I lay down anything. Easier clean up and paper lasts a lot longer.

I did that too. I chose my brand of primers based on which ones were rated to the coldest spray temps.
The foam head with the goggles, it needs a wig. Then you'll have a worthy accessory.

economiser wrote:

Taiga(Nisemono) wrote:

economiser wrote:I liked the idea of high-build filler primer, until it tripled the rate at which I went through sandpaper. So I switched to a sealer primer, much better all around. Nice results, less aggravation. Finished mine with 400-grit as my painter guy instructed.

I wet sand with 400 before I lay down anything. Easier clean up and paper lasts a lot longer.

I did that too. I chose my brand of primers based on which ones were rated to the coldest spray temps.
The foam head with the goggles, it needs a wig. Then you'll have a worthy accessory.

Hmm that is a good idea. The nice thing about this time of year is 90ish degrees is the hottest it will get. So this is the perfect time for me to start painting. I really need to get on it though. I haven't done anything since I pulled the engine aside from polishing more trim.

I saw you're on rx7club, you might also join rotarycarclub or norotors, depending on your engine plans. I'm also on ecomodder and lateral-g.net

Okay, so I've been pretty busy with life and school. I have barely even touched the car nor have I spent any money on it . Since it was black Friday I kind of splurged on this guy. Isn't really the color I like, but it was such a great deal and plays very well.


Since this semester is nearing an end I finally got some free time.

I'm at my buddies place pulling the engine out of the donor car. Everything is out aside from the engine itself. Next week all I have to is unbolt the mounts and pull the engine.


Had a little helper as well! One of the sweetest dogs I met and yes, I did step in some of that dog shit there


Next on the agenda is getting the brakes sorted, mounting the flares, and then buying the swap kit as well as transmission. Hopefully around the same time I can pick up a new set of wheels and tires. I've pretty much made up my mind on 15x8+0 205-45(or 50)-15 up front and 15x9+0 225-45(or 50)-15 in the rear. I'm also probably going to go with BFgoodrich rivals, unless someone says otherwise. I haven't done much research on tires, but I know the rivals are a great tire.

I've owned 2 of those late-'80s Ford 5.0L H.O.s, and both gave me fits, but both pulled decently well when they were in the mood, or when the stars aligned. Whatever the case, the heads aren't any fun to port, but respond well, and can equal World Windsor Juniors for 1/2 the investment. I did some back when I had access to a then-new SuperFlow 1020.
I couldn't find a cam I liked, so I specced my own. With yours being Mass-air, you'll have more freedom.
Is it including a good T5? Are you scoring the axle also?
Did I miss it, or what are your plans for brakes?

economiser wrote:I've owned 2 of those late-'80s Ford 5.0L H.O.s, and both gave me fits, but both pulled decently well when they were in the mood, or when the stars aligned. Whatever the case, the heads aren't any fun to port, but respond well, and can equal World Windsor Juniors for 1/2 the investment. I did some back when I had access to a then-new SuperFlow 1020.
I couldn't find a cam I liked, so I specced my own. With yours being Mass-air, you'll have more freedom.
Is it including a good T5? Are you scoring the axle also?
Did I miss it, or what are your plans for brakes?

Yeah, I don't know if I'm doing anything to the engine aside from nitrous(Something I still need to look into).

No, that blue mustang in the corner is getting the T5. I was going to leave the stock axles. I have no idea what I would need to do to swap the axles. I might buy them if it isn't difficult.

You missed it .I do have the gsl-se so I guess the rear brakes are already bigger and I have TII calipers I'm putting on the front. I still need to find someone who will make the spacers I need and someone I trust to redrill the rotors. I'm using some cheap O'Reilly rotors and I'll probably buy a few sets...You know, just to have them. I'm probably going to buy hawk pads as well. I've used them before and really liked them. I don't care if they're noisy or dusty. I just want it to stop well.

With your chosen tires being 23" OAD, where Mustangs use 25.7", you'll want to find the rare 3.308:1 gears for that axle, as a stock 5.0 is NOT rev-happy, even on nitrous. I'm assuming A.O.D., right? A y good general ( non-automotive ) machine shop can re-drill lug patterns, but it really is easy enough to do yourself at 1/10 the cost, even buying a set of new plastic concentric rings. I was going to swap some 11" ( I think, can't remember accurately once I moved on ) 4-lug rotors that would have needed re-drilled, I ended up re-drilling my rears anyway, and I did others for another vehicle. '85-'92 5.0L H.O.s came with forged pistons, you can safely spray a 125, or with a progressive controller you can spray 200 extra horses. The old Jacobs' Electronics Nitrous Mastermind is ideal. You can set for, say, 50% at 2700, ramping up to 100% at 5400 RPM. Plus it retards the ignition advance likewise to compensate, and that's also adjustable, separately. But I wouldn't try for 250 mainly because it'll foul the even colder sparkplugs a 250 would require. The block is good to 600 HP, but not much more. I've seen them literally broken in half. Also, a nitrous cam is worth it. Something like a Comp 35-552-8 for a stock H.O.

Got some work done the past couple days. The steering wheel would pull toward me and back almost an inch. So I figured since I have everything else apart that I would have the gear box rebuilt. Started tearing apart the suspension and realized the gsl-se uses the rotor as the hub...if that makes sense...So now I'm not sure how I'm going to get these turboII calipers to work. Before I have the gearbox rebuilt I'm going to look into using the rx7 subframe/steering rack/front suspension and somehow keep the 4x114.3. On to the pics!!!

Gearbox is out, I suppose I should get to cleaning!


Gauge cluster out, so much interior work to do!!


All the bolts and such from the passenger side, I just cleaned them up. Soon they will be going into labeled baggies. I'm using the drivers as reference in case I forgot which was which. Also I think someone asked me about the condition of the undercarriage regarding rust.


Just a random pic of my mess.


Subframe is out




Cleaning and polish, looks surprising good.


Before I removed the gear box

If by the gearbox you mean the steering box, then that won't be the source of the movement in your steering column. If the shaft was pulling out of the box by an inch, you wouldn't have any steering.
Sounds like the collapsible steering column has , well, collapsed for want of a better description. There is a shear pin halfway down the column that snaps in a collision ( or if someone hits it with a hammer trying to get the steering wheel off and the 2 pieces of the steering column then slide about giving the play that you've got. Check out the steering and suspension section of the forum.... There's a long thread about it in there.

ian65 wrote:Sounds like the collapsible steering column has , well, collapsed for want of a better description. There is a shear pin halfway down the column that snaps in a collision ( or if someone hits it with a hammer trying to get the steering wheel off and the 2 pieces of the steering column then slide about giving the play that you've got. Check out the steering and suspension section of the forum.... There's a long thread about it in there.

Mine did this It's a right pain in the arse to fix, too