www.RX7fb.com

Oh ok but it does seem a lot of work For the little benefiet you get out of it Right ? And the 13b engine from an fc is still very available over here

TOOL wrote:

gt_james wrote:Tool- why did you say the center plate would be useful to someone or would work in a 12A 6PI?

All the posts I have seen about RX8 rotors hitting housings are misinformation and the main difference is a chamfer on the edge and the side seals being in a different location, meaning bridge ports would have to open very early.

Are my end plates different to a "normal" S2 or S3 12A?

Rubarotary- a rotating mass just refers to the moving internals of a rotary engine, the rotors, E shaft and counterweights. I have been planning on using RX8 because they're more readily available here, the E shaft is the best/lightest 13B shaft and the rotors are ligher and higher compression, although I'm not sure if I would be best going back to the dwg board and using an '86+ 13B and forget the IDA and use the stock intake and run EFI or build a 4 port 13B with N/A rotors.

12A 6 port uses dinky primary ports iirc. So does 12AT but that's not a 12AT plate.

I never said anything about RX8 rotors. I was talking RX7.
I wouldn't use RX8 stuff. Apex seals are too shallow. Rotors need machined. Side seals are in a different position and won't work with a regular bridgeport.
RX8 shaft is longer and needs mods to work.

Your end plates are effectively the same.

Just keep it FC and you'll be fine.

Why would RX-7 rotors hit the housings then? I know about the differences in the apex seal sizes and the location of the side seals, I have looked into people who have built bridge ports with RX8 rotors and there are issues.

What modifications do the RX8 E shafts need? I thought the E shafts were used quite commonly in other 13Bs.

Start reading here:

http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php? ... s&start=45

See what Bumpstart says. Always best to keep engine series together.

For a street engine, you won't need RX8 rotors. Iirc RX8 rotors have never yielded more power than FC even with higher comp.

There's too much to type. Best call me if you want to discuss your options.

cheers for that link tool, lots of useful information. I definitely need to have a rethink.

Some of what Dwayne is recommending conflicts other information.

I don't know where to look for 13B or 12A parts or donor engines, or where to buy seal closing kits or anything. I was going to buy the whole engine off of Dan, although the housings were not usable.

seems like I might be best to look for an FC engine, although would probably want the 4 port turbo plates to run an IDA set up. hmmmmm.

I will probably give a call at some point TOOL

I'm sure Dwayne knows what he's doing.

If you want RX8 stuff check out 182267541153 on eBay.

I keep the engine series parts together cos you know they're right and don't require mods to fit. FC stuff is still plentiful and you can buy new still.

The FB stuff is hard to get now and older.... just walk away.

Bit of an update of non engine related stuff.

The whole car was very very stiff sprung, it had Zeal coilovers (Endless) from an FD RX7. Obviously the suspension design is completely different and the coilovers didn't work well. The spring rates are front 560ib/in and rear 615ib/in . I decided to look at the rear coilovers first. I thought changing the spring rate would be enough, I ordered some 180ib/in rear springs but when I got to fitting them I found the rear dampers were seized completely solid, so there was no suspension travel at all No wonder it was bouncy



So I got onto AVO and got some mk2 escort rear coilovers. They were recommended for a 180ib/in spring but in 12" whereas the zeal coilovers use a 7". The valving should be pretty good for the back of an RX7 though. I got them fitted, useing the top mount off the Zeal coilovers and used the 7" spring with the spring perch wound to the top. It works ok for now but I will get some helper springs as the springs are a bit short.









The front dampers seem to be working well but the front is far too stiff, so I will get some 350ib/in springs. I doubt the valving will be ideal but we'll see.

It would be nice to get some camber adjustable top mounts, RCAs and rear traction bracket from T3 to really sort the suspension out, but I doubt it'll. a track car so probably not necessary.

Other than that I did a quick alignment,


I've started cleaning the filthy engine bay, I tried to adjust the power windows but they're still chronic. Also need to order some door and window seals unless anyone has any?




And also got some new shoes

Nice choice for wheels. I've been meaning to try those .... real hard to find a set though. They don't hang around too long on RR boards. Great idea to polish them up too. I've seen them painted but they look the nuts polished up. What's the offset, I think it's around 14 IIRC?

I've always loved most things lotus and had a soft spot for these for a while. Et14 sounds about right, I think I'll run spacers. I would like ARP extended lug studs but not sure where I get them. I was trying to buy this set for months, they've been professionals polished, they aren't mint but look ok

Nice garage and more photos of the new wheels please!!

How would those rear escort shocks go onto a standard fb?


Rich

It's not my garage, it's my parent's really Still living at home. I rent a space in a barn in the village so I can keep both in dry storage.

The AVOs I have are 2.25in dia, for a stock car AVO will do a 1.9in dia shock body. You'd need post mount top. They will build them in all sorts of configurations, single or double adjustable, alloy or steel body etc.

more wheel pics