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RamoNZ wrote:
Sump and pickup on, exhaust rewrapped and inlet manifold heat shielded again too. Want to limit heat soak into the manifold if at all possible.

...And dropped the engine in for good measure, ready to wire up.

I am also tackling the other jobs that I have been putting off for so long - fitting up the front sway bar, which I am sure will make a big difference to handling, swapping the popped brake booster, found the clutch master has a load of crud in it, so prob swap that, exhaust is still a concern to get it mounted 100%.. so at the moment it seems never ending...

Moving on to more aesthetic things, I tried on the wheels now that they have tyres fitted. 205/40 for the front, same as before but 16 not 17 so lower overall height. offset is -7 from where they were so as expected, they are pretty spot on.



Rears is where it comes a bit unstuck. In seeking maximum grip at the expense of looks, I've used a pair of 225/50's These will hold on far better than the 205/40s but the wider tyre and higher aspect ration means the sidewall is far bigger. The same rim and offset with tyres as per the front or 195/40 all round and it would be bang on, but the extra width, side wall height and lack of stretch means we got a bit'o poke..







As you can see, it's just a smidge - but I had a plan in case of this ocurrence. For a start, the adaptor hub wasnt fitting into the bore of the rim - I estimated this was costing me 2/3mm at the top when it was fitted. I needed to trim the hub anyway, so while it was on the lathe, I decided to shave them from their original 25.15mm width to 20.0mm - giving me back about 8mm or maybe more from the pic.



Missing a before and after, so here is just after:



Will try another test fit, but a guard roller is next up to push the guard out, I reckon I can get away with a 5-10mm pump and we will be happy days

Well, a sort of Gsl-se, but with carbs and, well actually not a great deal like one at all apart from having a 13b....from an FC oh well.

Anyways - long time between posts and quite a lot happening in life, but to make a long story short I'll get to the point - I'm detuning the car to remove the turbo motor and gearbox and microtech in favour of a Series 4 6 port 13b with a Nikki carb and corresponding Series 4 5 speed gear box. I'm of course keeping the FC subframe and it's (power) rack and pinion and the brake upgrade that goes with it. The 5 stud pattern means that the standard sundial wheels are no longer an option but I have a set of innofensive Early series 4 turbine wheels which are almost in character.

The idea is that this keeps the charm of the original car, but overcomes some of the perceived shortcomings - namely heavy and indirect steering and a lack of power - the brake upgrade is simply then a bonus that can exploit higher grip levels of newer more modern rubber than the originals.

Pictures to walk us up to current day:

Take 1 FC donor vehicle - resigned to track only duties due to the chassis rust.


Remove engine and other bits of interest


Prepare engine for surgery


Remove EFi system etc..


Remove turbo engine - lovely to work out in the sun today!


Then some effort later, new engine and box in place with carb mocked up.


Fairly poor pics by all accounts but you get the gist - I do love the fact the 13b. Just drops in with none of this sump and front cover swap malarkey power steering pump just whacks on the side too.

That's where im at - little stuck on carb adaption side of things but plans are afoot to resolve then a quick cleanup and we should be rolling

nice work.... the FC subframe swap certainly makes it easier when it comes to dropping 13b's in... ..... what's the reason to go with a carb instead of the stock EFI?

I did think long and hard about keeping the EFi, first up the fuel pump is designed for 500hp so would be overkill in this situation and then I'd have to buy another. Second i really wanted to do an intank pump and have seen some people modify the stock tank to accept the FC one, but felt it too much work - the swirl pot in the car just seems odd in the case of a stockish motor. Lastly, I wanted it to be driving as soon as possible and didn't want the headache of combining the 2 looms.

I kept all the EFi gear in one piece tho, so anything is possible in the future

RamoNZ wrote:I did think long and hard about keeping the EFi, first up the fuel pump is designed for 500hp so would be overkill in this situation and then I'd have to buy another. Second i really wanted to do an intank pump and have seen some people modify the stock tank to accept the FC one, but felt it too much work - the swirl pot in the car just seems odd in the case of a stockish motor. Lastly, I wanted it to be driving as soon as possible and didn't want the headache of combining the 2 looms.

I kept all the EFi gear in one piece tho, so anything is possible in the future

hi ramonz why r u detuning u fb after all that hard work??? its such a shame!

Ramonz nikki is modified for using with 13B engine? What about aircleaner?
225/50 equal 15" or 16 " REAR are my favorite tires too. Best Compromise between comfort and high speed corner daily driving.
Carburated 13B was a long time in my opinion because it become even more difficult to get good 12A in Future.
Thomas

I wanna know what manifold you've come up with to mount a Nikki to a 13B 6 port.

Ever seen an episode of Art Attack?

Reason for the detune was a number of factors - the car was laggy with the T62 and tuning didn't get rid of it, traced to a severely damaged turbine wheel that once discovered was obvious as an apex seal had been through it. The turbine wheels are hard to get hold of and expensive when you find them as they differ in blade height to the Garret's they are based on. I put a to4b in its place and while it was better it had lost the scary top end of the turbobetics.

This was only planned as a temporary measure anyway but in the mean time, a fault with the thermo fan let the at overheat and that meant the water seals went - at that stage I decided to pull it down and get back to NA.

Regarding tyres - I'd agree about the 225/50 for the rear - these don't fit well up front so they are currently 205/60-15 on a 6 inch rim all round. Nikki hasn't been modified - I was going to just richen the mixture and see how it performed. It's not meant for all out power, though I'm expecting at least factory 13b NA power from it or around 150hp or so. The primaries are still separated from the 6 port secondaries so I'm hoping it will still retain low down pull.

Manifold I'm working on was simply wedged in place for the pic

I've never seen the arts show - if you're a talent scout and think you've found the next new thing in abstract, you got my number, but be aware in not cheap

So jealous Mmmmm, proper oil cooler lines

I think having a driving car would be progress, even if it's only running on a starter motor . I'd certainly applaud you just getting it running and worrying about getting it righteous later