www.RX7fb.com

Had some guys come down last week.. spent a few hours on the wiring.. well out of the 5 hrs people were there an hrs worth of work was achieved but it was a fun night.. Highlight was we got the ecu to communicate with a laptop with key on/off....

I hope the very long battery cable having the correct Cross section. The Yellow top 55AH needs 14,6 V for full load. Btw nice pictures!

its 4 gauge.. more than enough...

Bet that felt good! Nice progress. Can't wait to get mine cranking haha

yes but no haha... Yes cause it was awesome.. No cause.. well no signal to the coils or injectors..

buying a cheap laptop today off of a mate so we can see what the ecu sees...

oil cooler fittings were cracked and I missed them... so I fixed them...

I think..haha

Unfortunately they are quite prone to cracking, mainly due to the force that placed on the bosses when removing the banjo bolts. If they crack again, I strongly recommend looking into an FC oil cooler. These having the fitting top and side to prevent this from occurring.

DWNUNDR wrote: ↑Wed Sep 05, 2018 6:05 pm its 4 gauge.. more than enough...

4AWG wire usually has a current carrying limit of 60 to 100A (depending on who you believe). While that is generally OK during normal engine running, current draw can spike well above that during cranking (200 to 250A). Also, the fact that the wire is several metres long means you can experience voltage drop from the alternator even across 4 gauge. If you have an EFI system with fuel pumps, multiple injectors and a thermofan, you could easily exceed 60A under some conditions, which would push 4ga to its limit.

For these reasons, for the main battery positive cable, I was recommended to use 70mm stick welding cable or 00 automotive cable with a 250A breaker. After my 4ga starter wire melted, I upgraded from 4ga to this stuff, using a plated pass-through terminal on the chassis floor, and it was a million times better. 4ga wire is really only for big stereo amplifiers IMO.

Lots of great info on the topic here: http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=31504

That link posted above is the holy grail of wiring up the battery really . Has all info needed. I also went with 70mm2 cable. Oceanflex brand tinned stuff which is super flexible for its size, 200A breaker and a through panel to the starter

Yep, Butyl Hypalon welding cable, 70mm2 sounds right.
You need loads of amps and lowest possible volt drop when starting.

I've designed many a mains switchboard and generator starting panel using this stuff.
Crimped or soldered lugs would terminate the cable nicely.