cooling system refresh....

[richrx]

Yeah it looks like I'll be a busy boy, the whole of the engine is covered with that stuff from the manifold up ive got a huge amount of scrubbing to do !!

Then the other side is covered in oil from a leaking bee hive oil cooler.... glad I pulled the engine now as all this would be a nightmare in the car. And im learning loads about the car, all the slightly different bolts showing whats been off before... most things it appears despite being an original engine!

No worries about the fan lucky, im hardly in a position to put it on and use it your advice will be much more valuable just now!! But I'll PM you an address if you give me an email address I'll paypal the costs over.

Tool, to be honest I think I will leave it on, I have been considering options, and I think I want to leave it OEM at the moment, I dont have money to change it to what I want so will concentrate on keeping it 100% stock to the eye and get it mechanically and body wise a clean road car...

Unfortunately the last owner was quite elderly and I think this car slipped down his list of priorities, but he does still love it and sold it on before the car needed too much maintenance. The coolant leak was well hidden, and minor, just been there a looong time.

Any thought's on the water housing removal, it appears the water pump pully won't clear the main pully and that big centre bolt it tight! !

Also is the pitting on the block anything to worry about?

Rich

[richrx]

I'll be phoning the specialists to try and source some gaskets, do they still sell them new? If not wander if an FC inlet could be modified to fit...

Rich

[Hobbawobba]

I had this same problem when I got mine last year. It'll look loads better with all the crap cleaned up haha. Pretty easy to fix up though. Make sure to chuck in some core plugs where the o rings were!

Heres a thread on the intake gasket. Cheap There's also a thread floating about somewhere with the part numbers for beehive o rings
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=68

[TOOL]

I'll be phoning the specialists to try and source some gaskets, do they still sell them new? If not wander if an FC inlet could be modified to fit...

Rich

Mazda sell them new. I've got a new one in the garage with orings if you get stuck.

DO NOT TAKE THE MAIN PULLEY BOLT OFF

You'll risk crushing the Torrington bearings under the front cover. Then you'll be looking at a complete rebuild.

Put a wire wheel on a drill on that motor and she'll come up good as new.

PS I'm not Codge lol

[KiwiDave]

I had this same problem when I got mine last year. It'll look loads better with all the crap cleaned up haha. Pretty easy to fix up though. Make sure to chuck in some core plugs where the o rings were!

Heres a thread on the intake gasket. Cheap There's also a thread floating about somewhere with the part numbers for beehive o rings
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=68

Thread for Beehive here viewtopic.php?f=12&t=431 (Page 3 for O ring part number)

[richrx]

PS I'm not Codge lol

lol my apologies. ... who did I insult most? :p

[richrx]

Ok I wont touch the pain pully, I assume the water pump cant come off then? Or can it be worked off at an angle?

Oh I tried using a wire wheel on a drill... wasnt sure if it was causing damage so thought best to proceed by hand.

Rich

[myatt1972]

As Codge says ditch that thermal reactor.
Pip has a stainless system for sale here... viewtopic.php?f=18&t=1782

[TOOL]

Why do you want to take the water pump off?

How many pulleys are there? 3? There should be 4 (M10?) bolts going into the main pulley. You can take them out and remove all but the main pulley. DO NOT TOUCH THE BIG BOLT. That should get you some more clearance.
The pump will come off without taking the housing off with it iirc.

I've been playing with 13Bs too much lately to remember exactly.

[richrx]

Why do you want to take the water pump off?

How many pulleys are there? 3? There should be 4 (M10?) bolts going into the main pulley. You can take them out and remove all but the main pulley. DO NOT TOUCH THE BIG BOLT. That should get you some more clearance.
The pump will come off without taking the housing off with it iirc.

I've been playing with 13Bs too much lately to remember exactly.

Basically the car had an issue with the coolant overheating and venting out the overflow tank when the car was hot and switched off, so I want to see what condition the pump is in, and see if its as gunked up as the rest of the waterways. Also im just checking the condition of as much as possible, plus im going to paint it too, which is easier when its removed

There are 3 pullys, the big main pully, a smaller pully behind that and the water pump.. the waterpump overlaps with the main pully.. dont wanna ruin the gaskets without knowing I can get in all out without removing that big bad bolt! So if I take the pump out first it should clear, then the housing after?

Rich