White Fc Convertible

[richrx]

Thanks for the hints, so far nothing broken, but lots to go yet!!!

I'll maybe start ordering new clips just in case now though

Rich

[richrx]

I don't even want to look at how long it's taken me to get the interior out this. But finally the carpets up. I've still got the wiring to remove but the initial parts done.

Very interested on thoughts regarding removing this bar to repair? I think ill need to strip the underside given the rust bleeding through...



Looks like a repair to firewall and both corners are rotten, possibly where water pools?





The repairs look like they'll be difficult to access and I'll need to remove a fair bit and drill out spotwelds to get to them( for an amature it's alot at least ) but I think I'm feeling positive that the floors solid!!

Oh I have also got a lockup now to store parts

Next will be engine, box subframe out and bumpers/wings off etc...


Rich

[ian65]

I wouldn't remove that floor crossmember Rich unless you absolutely have to... sure you could drill out the spot welds and fetch it out but you'll only have to plug weld it back in afterwards. If I was dealing with that rust around that item I'd clean as much rust back as possible with a wire wheel on an angle grinder then flood it with rust converter to kill the rest of the rust... afterwards wash it off and when dry give it a good coat of either zinc primer or POR15.... unless there are holes under it that I can't see in the photo

[richrx]

Also does anyone known if repair panels are available? Sills etc?

Rich

[richrx]

I wouldn't remove that floor crossmember Rich unless you absolutely have to... sure you could drill out the spot welds and fetch it out but you'll only have to plug weld it back in afterwards. If I was detailing with that rust around that item I'd clean as much rust back as possible with a wire wheel on an angle grinder then floor it with rust converter to kill the rest of the rust... afterwards wash it off and when dry give it a good coat of either zinc primer or POR15.... unless there are holes under it that I can't see in the photo

Cheers Ian,

That's my gut instinct too. But I've seen it done so wasn't sure if that's the normal repair method. The last MOT hasn't shown up any holes in that area and I cant see any. It looks to be surface rust only.

I'm hoping the sills are ok too. They look solid but the bit towards the front may indicate inner sill issues too...


Rich

[richrx]

I'm not sure how helpful or interesting these pics are but got a little more done, mostly moving parts to a garage I have near to my house now... And obviously photographing more rust.

I'm in 2 minds, should I remove the engine and box through the top or drop the whole lot .. Subframe and suspension through the bottom?

[danny]

Well, you got yourself a project here! If it is possible for you, i would lift the body up, and roll the engine and box from underneath. Put the empty shell on higher stands, so it is easyer to get under it.BE SAFE! I should remove all the undercoating. There will be more surprises lurking...Just repair piece by piece and don't try to rush things. DO NOT set yourself a deadline! We are no T.V.-show! Wheeler Dealers, Car S.O.S., etc....done in two weeks??? I don't think so.

[richrx]

Any hints how to get it higher? I've got a few old sleepers laying around I could put the axel stands on for an extra 10 inches or so. They seem secure and solid! I'll keep plugging away and removing parts untill I get to an unrepairable part

Does anyone know if any panels are still being made for these? Even in oz or stateside? Hopfully I've not asked that before


Rich

[danny]

Hi Rich, I made my own stands long time ago. They clamp on to the sils with 2 M10 bolts. Hight is about 600mm. By bolting on in that way, te car is completely secure and doesn't wobble around. You can get in and under the car without any problem.

[TOOL]

I’ve always pulled them out from the top.

Not difficult.