1983 Elford Turbo

[Moomin]

More progresses

VID-20230430-WA0013.mp4

(2.58 MiB) Downloaded 564 times

Added to list of things to resolve:

Why it only makes 7psi boost, I suspect wastegate
Sort the rear discs out as they are fudged

[kenwhiteside]

Mine makes 0.35 bar or about 5psi. They were low boost from standard.

[Moomin]

So if anything it's making too much

Before I start pulling the dash apart, is there any relationship between fuel, water temp and voltage gauge, know of them work but the rest of the dash does?

[Casey]

Yep, looking at this part of the wiring diagram, It might be as simple as a bad earth contact "X-13", which is shown on the wiring diagram as common to those three items:

Wiring, part, C.jpg (69.21 KiB) Viewed 16163 times

physical location here - looks like a screw into the firewall?

X-13.jpg (83.26 KiB) Viewed 16163 times

EDIT: Ah, X-13 is a common earth point for lots of items, so you'd be seeing more issues if it were that? Looks like the earth feed from X-13 via connector X-05, wire colour black, via front harness to the cluster but, again, that would affect more than just those three gauges? Could be the voltage regulator shown in the wiring diagram, but that should only affect the fuel and water temp, not the voltage meter.

TBH, it's probably a cluster out job, not sure what that entails, maybe others can advise, then we can look further with some pics of the PCB and components. I've been playing with much more sophisticated FD clusters, so hope I can assist with repair advice when we can see the cluster out.

[Casey]

Crumbs. I was googling for a picture of a FB cluster PCB and came across a full cluster for sale in the UK at £30 on eBay, so I purchased it on a whim

I like old electronics stuff, so happy to have a play with this and maybe assist with sorting out your instrument problems

[Moomin]

Wow some useful things to chase down. What does the weird connector on the back of the little "wallet" slot in the centre console do, I disconnected it while refurbing that panel, might not be on right.

It's a piece of brass that seems to link some pins in a connector.

[ian65]

If you plug the connector into it, it will keeps the sidelights on as running lights

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1111&start=70

[Casey]

Crumbs. I was googling for a picture of a FB cluster PCB and came across a full cluster for sale in the UK at £30 on eBay, so I purchased it on a whim

I like old electronics stuff, so happy to have a play with this and maybe assist with sorting out your instrument problems

This purchase has now arrived, as posted here: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=4830

I've been having a play around and have worked out most of the PCB connections and have a fair understanding of how most things work. One thing is obvious, the published circuit diagrams for these clusters are based on USA models and bear only a passing resemblance to the UK version!

Before I start pulling the dash apart, is there any relationship between fuel, water temp and voltage gauge, know of them work but the rest of the dash does?

I can't see any common cause to these gauges at all. The supply to the voltage gauge is common to a lot of the other gauges/lights in the dash, so if a lot of other stuff is working it suggests a faulty meter OR corrosion on a PCB contact to the gauge.

The water temp gauge not working could be the sensor on the engine block, or the 7 volt voltage regulator in the dah unit, a poor PCB connection, or faulty gauge.

The fuel gauge not working could be the sender in the tank, a poor PCB connection, or faulty gauge.

If you can eliminate the fuel and temp senders, then it's looking like a dash out job. I should be able to help, possibly remotely, to fix the dash unit, having now had a play with my ebay purchase.

[Moomin]

So the wing indicators turned out to be bimetallic corrosion between the brass pin and steel bulb holder body creating a perfect insulator

Fuel gauge was lose wires, temp sender is, the temp sender. The wires have been cut off. Didn't even notice before

Need to find a replacement temp sender now

I've also just bought some rear coilovers from Protech Shocks, I've used them before on a Ginetta cup car and they are fantastic. £384 all in for custom made aluminium rear coilovers. Springs are 125lb which I thought would be a little soft but in the road is firm but not teeth cracking.

If anyone wants some rear coilovers (make your own front ones with a welder) Tim at Protech has the specs saved. These are 400 Series single adjustment.

PXL_20230522_162816589.jpg (109.88 KiB) Viewed 16079 times

Here it is post coilovers

PXL_20230524_175005993-01.jpeg (164.64 KiB) Viewed 16079 times

My next question for you oracles of knowledge is proving manufacturing date to DVLA so I dont have to spend money paying road tax for a year.

The VIN is JMZFB131200667387

Which by what I can find on the internet puts it pre-June '82 for manufacture but not registered till October' 83!

PXL_20230525_182844235.jpg (221.99 KiB) Viewed 16079 times

[Porters2]

Hiya,
You need to send an email with the vin number to the team at mmukassistance@mazdaeur.com
And ask them for written proof of build date, dvla insist on it being on headed paperwork from the manufacturer.
They wrote me a great letter with date of build, date of import and registration, also explaining that they are the official representative for Mazda Japan ltd.
I believe that they posted one to Kev but I collected mine as Mazda headquarters right round the corner from me.
Cheers Steve.