want to see what everyone thinks... I have access to a 1 1/8" willwood single outlet master cylinder (http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/ ... 20Cylinder) and a 5/8" willwood compact master cylinder (http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/ ... 20Cylinder)
what i'm thinking is the 1.125" ms is large enough to run a 4 wheel disc without the need for a booster....yes or no?
if it is I would use the other for the clutch and have them both using remote mount res.
whats everyone think? yea or nah?
willwood swap poll
Re: willwood swap poll
after some r&d scrub the single feed ms, going tandem wilwood and deleting booster still adding the cms though
1984 series 3 RX-7 "Cricket"
motor oil is not meant to be burned!
motor oil is not meant to be burned!
Re: willwood swap poll
this is the master for the brakes

broke it down, stripped it to be powder coated
this is the clutch master, which I believe is same piston size as factory

which recieved the same treatment
still have to remove my old ones, both weep, and the booster is bad. had these from other projects and after powder coating they will recieve fresh rebuild.
plumbing- clutch is no brainer, but FB's use a 3 outlet design with one dedicated to front wheel, then the remaining 2 plumb through a proportion valve. without a known good oem master I cant record line pressures to set the new master to match, so I plan to plumb the rear the same as oem but for the front I will try a t off the fronts output-run one to the dedicated front and the other to the proportion valve....knowing I may have to change brake line diameter to roughly adjust line pressure and volume. will still end up installing a manual pressure regulator for the rear system anyway, will plumb for disc brake but be able to dial it back for the drums

broke it down, stripped it to be powder coated
this is the clutch master, which I believe is same piston size as factory

which recieved the same treatment
still have to remove my old ones, both weep, and the booster is bad. had these from other projects and after powder coating they will recieve fresh rebuild.
plumbing- clutch is no brainer, but FB's use a 3 outlet design with one dedicated to front wheel, then the remaining 2 plumb through a proportion valve. without a known good oem master I cant record line pressures to set the new master to match, so I plan to plumb the rear the same as oem but for the front I will try a t off the fronts output-run one to the dedicated front and the other to the proportion valve....knowing I may have to change brake line diameter to roughly adjust line pressure and volume. will still end up installing a manual pressure regulator for the rear system anyway, will plumb for disc brake but be able to dial it back for the drums
1984 series 3 RX-7 "Cricket"
motor oil is not meant to be burned!
motor oil is not meant to be burned!
Re: willwood swap poll
more r&d-(all views mentioned are as if the master is mounted in car) the factory s3 ms on drum brake rear is 13/16", the rear portion of the master is used on the front brakes (by means of a longer overall stroke it moves more overall fluid) but has 2 outlets (one goes directly to drivers front and other to proportion valve). the front portion goes to rear and uses a shorter overall stroke (plumbed through proportion valve it shares with passenger front). The Wilwood tandem master is the opposite-front for front (or largest effective piston bore area) rear for rear (smallest effective piston bore area) calipers vs wheel cylinders (but also holds true for 4 wheel disc as the front caliper bore area is usually always larger than rear) so my plans are to "alter" the factory plumbing a little. I plan to do away with dual line front and factory proportion valve and add a Wilwood p/n 260-11179 combination proportion valve/adj brake bias.
now apparently the s5 calipers have the same effective piston bore area as s3/s4 single piston calipers, and knowing swept area is more important than diameter, i'd like input on which setup is actually better. does the s5 caliper/rotor have a greater swept area than the s3?

now apparently the s5 calipers have the same effective piston bore area as s3/s4 single piston calipers, and knowing swept area is more important than diameter, i'd like input on which setup is actually better. does the s5 caliper/rotor have a greater swept area than the s3?

1984 series 3 RX-7 "Cricket"
motor oil is not meant to be burned!
motor oil is not meant to be burned!