Handbrake cable questions.

[KiwiDave]

Recently, I have needed to remove my rear brakes completely, that's calipers, carriers and discs off the car.

When the handbrake cables were disconnected, it was one nut loosened off to remove the cable from it's mount and then remove the cable end from the caliper ... easy.

When reinstalled, the handbrake now moves only 2 notches as opposed to 5-6 before and it's dragging on both wheels, the right side in particular.

Now, while I could just slacken the adjuster at the handbrake end, I would quite like to know what has changed since nothing else related to the handbrake was touched.

Any theories out there, good people

[ian65]

why did you remove the calipers Dave, were new pads fitted? Did you wind the pistons back in as far as they would go and then aligned the notch in the piston with the stud on the back of the pads?
If you replaced the pads and the old pads were worn. the handbrake may have been adjusted previously to take up the slack so you'll need to adjust it to suit the new pads as per the workshop manual

[KiwiDave]

Removal was actually diff related Ian (more on that later). The pistons weren't moved at all which is why I am stumped as to why the handbrake adjustment has changed. Is it an error in reinstalling the cable?

[TOOL]

If the right is dragging, use the adjustment at the caliper. That's your new cable and the nuts aren't rusted solid like on the left hand side

[codge]

Recently, I have needed to remove my rear brakes completely, that's calipers, carriers and discs off the car.

When the handbrake cables were disconnected, it was one nut loosened off to remove the cable from it's mount and then remove the cable end from the caliper ... easy.

When reinstalled, the handbrake now moves only 2 notches as opposed to 5-6 before and it's dragging on both wheels, the right side in particular.

Now, while I could just slacken the adjuster at the handbrake end, I would quite like to know what has changed since nothing else related to the handbrake was touched.

Any theories out there, good people

Forgive Me, Forgive Me......but have you definitely got the cable spacing washers/nuts back on the calliper exactly as they fitted on each side of the RHS calliper bracket as before??

Strangely it seems to be always the RHS wheel that gives me adjuster trouble.

Weird idea as well, is it possible for the cable to have been pushed back up towards the cabin, thereby dislodging the adjuster at the handbrake or dislodging the cables as they go through the chassis. (From memory they go through rubber sleeves on their travels to the cabin)?

[ian65]

if the washers & nuts etc have gone back in the right place as Dave says, then I'd just back it off at the handbrake and drive it for a bit.... if the handbrake then settles down and needs tightening up, it's easy to do it at the handbrake. If you can't back the handbrake off enough to stop the brakes binding, then I'd say the diff is duff!

[KiwiDave]

Thnx for the input guys. It was very dark when it all went back together so I'll check the washers and nuts first.

[KiwiDave]

Looks like it was a combination of brakes and handbrake cable. The LH handbrake cable is probably the original and the nuts are frozen solid. It's back in place but I'll get a new one. Was easier to put that side in first (since it has no adjustment) and then center everything with the RH side which is new.

Handbrake is back to 5-6 clicks now.

When I get a cable, is it the same part for left and right or are they location specific?

Also, could someone post a pic or diagram of where the groove is on the rear caliper piston? This needs to line up with the caliper cut outs when wound back in. I can't see any kind of groove on mine and the pic in the haynes manual is useless! Thnx in advance

[TOOL]

Dave, you need to come clean bro. It all comes out in the wash

[KiwiDave]

I think it is probably best

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