spirit r wrote:do the same 10 year ago and got in trouble with the steering column mounted switch. The more Ampere destroy the contact in the lightswitch very fast. Must take a relais for sure.
But looks good and symmetrical.
Thomas
Yes Thomas you are right (as usual )
I have taken a new feed direct from the battery and used the original feed to switch a relay.
mc turbo wrote:
hi M8 does this replace the old style fuse links box that ive seen in my haynes manual? as mine uses the newer blade fuses like my T2 & FD! CHEERS
Yes, I want to get rid of those fuse links, sounds like yours have already been sorted.
Hobbawobba wrote:Looks good, Keith! Interested to see the fuse swap aye. I was looking at swapping mine out. I saw a bunch of different types of fuse holders and I don't know what'd be best haha
Seems quite a few have been changed to the later type from an fd I think ???
You an either just pop the FC style large fuses into the existing fusible link holder or cut it out and swap in the engine bay fuse bank from the FC.
Sounds like a good idea to add in a relay if you are going for more powerful headlights though it just as a precaution as relays are far more hardy than a simple combo switch contact.
mc turbo wrote:
hi M8 does this replace the old style fuse links box that ive seen in my haynes manual? as mine uses the newer blade fuses like my T2 & FD! CHEERS
Yes, I want to get rid of those fuse links, sounds like yours have already been sorted.
i guess the later S3`s had an upgrade! as mine is located under the drivers side dash behind the bonnet cable pull & i think this the only fuse box on the s3?
mc turbo wrote:
hi M8 does this replace the old style fuse links box that ive seen in my haynes manual? as mine uses the newer blade fuses like my T2 & FD! CHEERS
Yes, I want to get rid of those fuse links, sounds like yours have already been sorted.
i guess the later S3`s had an upgrade! as mine is located under the drivers side dash behind the bonnet cable pull & i think this the only fuse box on the s3?
They also have 3 fuse links in the engine bay on the nearside strut turret, these are the ones Im replacing
They also have 3 fuse links in the engine bay on the nearside strut turret, these are the ones Im replacing [/quote]
hi all I can see is the hot start assist unit , some large connecters with rubber covers & on the other side of the turret the two coils, but in the Haynes manual it shows theres a fuse links underneath the steering colum, can u put up some pics of where ur links r! cheers
The large connectors with rubber covers will be your fusible links Mick. There's 3 looping fuses, like wires, covered in heat proof material going from one side of each connector to the other.
They're basically slow blow fuses, upstream (nearer the battery) of the quicker fuses in the fuse box. Grading it's called, the idea is that individual items should only blow their own fuse in the fuse box and only cut off a small section. If there's a megga short circuit then the slow blow fusible links melt and then a whole load of the car wiring shuts down. The fuse box is just to the right of the steering column under the dash. Pull the plastic lid downwards and off and you'll see the individual car fuses.
From memory the fusible links also are the only protection for the headlight wiring. (For obvious reasons you don't want to be plunged into darkness for a silly niggly fault when you're hurtling along flat out at 25 mph in the dark like I do).
It's very important that you replace the fusible links with the same characteristics of fuse......that means the fuse's time delay to blow as well as its amp rating.
I think Thomas is saying that if you beef up your headlights, watch out for extra amps to the lights. That's because the rotating multi switch on the column might not like it. You can therefore use a relay to shift the headlight current away from the multi switch.
)
I was looking at swapping mine out. I saw a bunch of different types of fuse holders and I don't know what'd be best haha
